Innovative, Earth-Friendly Building Products

About Compressed Earth Blocks

Earth: A Natural Building Material

Earth has been used as a building material for thousands of years. From ancient times to the present day, earthen construction has been used to build everything from modest shelters to elaborate temples using a wide variety of techniques — adobe, cob, rammed earth and compressed earth blocks, to name but a few. Earthen construction has witnessed a renaissance in recent years due largely to economic and environmental concerns. The availability, low cost and environmentally friendly nature of earth as a building material makes it an attractive alternative to conventional building methods.

Compressed Earth Blocks

Strong, dimensionally stable building blocks can be made by compressing slightly moistened earth under moderately high pressure using a device made specifically for this purpose, commonly known as a compressed earth block press. This concept was developed in Columbia during the mid-1950s to address the need for low-cost housing. The original “CINVA RAM” was a

portable, manually operated machine that could produce building blocks made from soil available at the building site. Since its inception, the basic design has changed very little. In recent years, hydraulics and compressed air have been used to generate a compaction force far greater than that attainable by human power alone. Despite these innovations, manually produced blocks are virtually indistinguishable from those produced by power-assisted machines.

Building with Compressed Earth Blocks

Compressed earth blocks are similar to adobes, with the main differences being they are not fully saturated with water, are more dense than adobes, and are usually significantly more uniform. Because of their uniformity, compressed earth blocks need little mortar, and can even be dry-stacked. This uniformity also speeds up the laying process and results in straighter walls.

While the manufacture of compressed earth blocks is labor intensive, they can significantly reduce the costs involved in building a house, outbuildings, fences, garden walls, and so on. If soil consisting of clay, caliche and silt is available at the building site, admixtures (such as cement and lime) can be omitted, thus

the only cost involved in producing compressed earth blocks is the block press and the time invested by the builder.

Advantages of using compressed earth blocks:

  1. They can be removed from the machine immediately after pressing and stacked for curing which requires generally no more than about a week (slightly longer if cement and/or lime is added to the mixture).
  2. Having uniform dimensions, sharp edges and smooth surfaces, they are easy to lay.
  3. They can be produced at a fraction of the cost of conventional cement blocks.
  4. They have structural qualities superior to kilned brick and other masonry materials.

Making Compressed Earth Blocks

Most soils, when reasonably free from organic matter, will make good compressed earth blocks and tiles. Best results are obtained by first screening the soil through 1/8" wire mesh to remove any pebbles, rocks, chunks of compacted soil, etc. Portland cement and/or lime can be added to the soil to increase strength and

resistance to erosion, but this will increase the curing time. When using Portland cement in the soil, getting the formula right is critical. Too little cement produces a block that will crumble when handled; too much cement greatly increases the cost with no additional benefit. The amount of moisture in the soil or soil/cement mixture is also critical; a too-wet or too-dry mixture weakens the block; experimentation is required to determine the proper amount of moisture.

Once the proper soil mixture has been determined, making the blocks is straightforward. Place a measured amount of soil into the block press and close the lid. The soil mix is then compacted, either manually or via the machine’s air/hydraulic jack. Once compressed, the block is carefully removed from the press and stacked in an area protected from the elements where they can cure.

Foundations for Earthen Structures

A bit of engineering knowledge is required to determine the size of the foundation needed to support an earthen structure. Compressed earth blocks are heavy, typically weighing from 25 to 50 pounds depending on their size and content. Using

conservative figures, this translates to roughly 1200 pounds per square foot, not including the weight of the roof and loading factors. Doubling this value is usually safe, so the foundation for a typical earthen structure must be able to support and distribute a load of 2400 pounds per square foot.

Alternative foundations can be constructed using rammed-earth tires, “earth bags” and many other environmentally friendly techniques. You’ll find plenty of information about these alternatives on the Internet.

The general rule for foundation footings is to make them as deep as the wall is wide and twice the wall’s width. Thus, a wall 14" wide would require a footing 28" wide and 14" deep. If the soil bearing capacity is less than 2400 pounds per square foot, the width of the footing must be increased to distribute the weight with a safety margin of at least thirty percent of the soil’s bearing capacity.

The point to be made here is that unless you’re building on solid rock or you have the knowledge of the pyramid builders, a poured, reinforced concrete foundation is both necessary and fairly expensive. For your own safety and the longevity of your home,

BEARING CAPACITY OF SOILS
In Tons Per Square Foot
Hard Rock 40
Soft Rock 8
Coarse Sand 4
Hard, dry clay 3
Fine clay sand 2
Soft clay 1

don’t take any shortcuts on your foundation. A well-built foundation is worth its weight in gold.

Protection from the Elements

There are several admixtures that can make your compressed earth blocks stronger and more water-resistant. Any admixture will increase construction costs, but the end result is usually a better, more durable product.

Hydrated lime is often the admixture of choice: the lime and clay in the soil react to form a binder, resulting in a stronger, more water-resistant block. Portland cement can also be used, but it’s tricky business — finding just the right proportions of cement to soil requires a great deal of experimentation. Another common admixture is asphalt emulsion, an oil-based product used in road construction. It acts as a binder and is highly effective at repelling water, but many environmentally-conscious earth builders find it

objectionable (and plaster doesn’t adhere well to it, either). Finally, there are enzyme products, again used in road construction, that are safe and non-toxic, and their binding abilities are quite amazing. While a bit expensive, around $120 per gallon, it’s highly concentrated and a little goes a long way — one gallon treats 500 gallons of water. If you need to build or improve a road leading to your home site, enzymes such as PermaZyme 11X may be an ideal choice.

Regardless of the admixtures in your compressed earth blocks, protection from the elements — especially water — is essential. Fortunately, this is neither difficult nor expensive. Providing a long roof overhang goes a long way in keeping water away from the walls and foundation of your earthen home, and further helps shade the walls and reduce the amount of heat they collect on hot summer days. A simple stone or brick facade around the bottom perimeter of the structure also helps keep water away.

In recent years, a great debate has arisen as to how earthen walls should be protected. Conventional builders (and in fact, many building codes) insist that stucco be applied to the exterior surfaces of earthen walls. Experienced earth builders disagree

with this notion, stating that stucco only serves to trap moisture in the wall which eventually causes damage and could possibly lead to catastrophic failure.

Close examination of old earthen structures — many of which are still standing today — reveals that multiple layers of lime-bearing mud plaster was used to protect them. Each thin layer contains a slightly greater amount of lime, the top-most of which is almost a pure lime plaster. Despite the fact that lime absorbs moisture, it will not retain it. A wall protected with a lime-based plaster can “breathe,” allowing any moisture it may contain to eventually escape. On the other hand, stucco and cement-based products generally act as a barrier that actually traps moisture.

The general consensus among earth builders is that the exterior plaster should be made of the same or similar ingredients as the wall itself. If you’ve added cement and/or lime to your soil, you should do the same with your plaster.

How to Make Blocks

This tutorial describes the process of making compressed earth blocks. An AH-612 is used for purposes of discussion, but the procedure is essentially the same for all models of our compressed earth block presses.

Soil Preparation

Proper soil preparation is essential to successful block making. Most soils, when reasonably free from organic matter, will make good compressed earth blocks and tiles. Best results are obtained by first screening the soil through ¼" wire mesh to remove any pebbles, rocks, chunks of compacted soil, roots and so on.

Soil Binders and Amendments

The soil must have some amount of clay; it is the binder which holds the block together when compressed. If the clay content is excessive (generally no more than about 20-40%), sand must be added. Portland cement and/or lime can be added to the soil to increase strength and resistance to erosion, but this will increase the curing time.

When using Portland cement in the soil, getting the formula right is critical; too little cement produces a block that will crumble when handled, while too much cement greatly increases the cost with no additional benefit.

Proper Moisture

The amount of moisture in the soil is also critical; a too-wet or too-dry mixture weakens the block; experimentation is required to determine the proper amount of moisture, but be assured that it takes surprisingly little to produce a strong and solid block. To demonstrate just how critical the moisture content is, we will first make a block with an excessive amount of water in the soil.

After screening the soil and adding just a bit too much water, our soil clumps into little balls as shown here.

Loading the Mould Box

The mould box is filled, but with an insufficient amount of soil — the corners need to be filled in and it all needs to be tamped down.

With the corners filled in and the contents of the mould box tamped down, we’re ready to compress it into a block.

Compressing the Soil

With the soil properly packed into the mould box, the lid is now fully closed and locked and the air control valve is depressed for approximately thirty (30) seconds. During this time you will hear the air/hydraulic jack in operation; the piston will slowly rise, compressing the soil into a block. When compressing full-sized blocks (i.e., a half-block insert is not used), you should allow the piston to rise slightly above the Maximum Compression Indicator on the front of the machine; you will hear the jack begin to slow down as it approaches its maximum pressure. At this point, release the air control valve; the compression cycle is finished.

Extracting the Block from the Press

To remove the block from the machine, you must first release some of the pressure from the jack. Slowly turn the Jack Release Handle counter-clockwise for 1/4 turn until the piston drops about one inch, then quickly close it again to prevent it from dropping down too far.

Unlock the lid and slide it open. This may take a bit of effort, particularly if the soil is too moist.

As mentioned previously, we’ve intentionally added too much water to the soil to show how it affects the block and the machine’s operation. Here’s what it looks like, shown at left.

Note the muddy water dripping down the front and sides of the mould box. What a mess! An excessive amount of water makes it very difficult to open the lid and the quality of the block suffers greatly.

To make things even more difficult, we left out the core plate! This caused the block to stick to the piston, which in turn made it impossible to remove without severe damage to the block. Now that you know how not to make a block, we’ll show you the right way to do it.

Checking the Soil’s Moisture Content

Starting with dry soil, slowly add a SMALL amount of water and with a hoe or shovel, mix it thoroughly into the soil for thirty to sixty seconds. To check for the proper amount of moisture, pick up a small handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball. It should hold together as shown here.

If the ball of soil falls apart in your hand, more moisture is needed. If water drips from your fingers or if the ball of soil has a slight shine to it, you’ve added too much water; either wait for the sun to dry it out a bit or add some dry soil to the mix. When the moisture content is right, the ball will look like the one shown in this photo.

Drop the ball of soil onto a hard surface from a height of about three feet (one meter). If it falls apart, you need to add a little more water.

If the ball is too wet, it will hold together and flatten out.

When the moisture content is just right, the ball of soil should break into a few small pieces.

A Successful Block

After mixing in some dry soil to absorb the excess moisture, a second block is made, this time remembering to insert the core plate! Upon opening the lid, we see no excess water dripping from the edges of the block press.

Now, we’ll raise the piston up to its maximum height, allowing the block and the core plate to be removed. Be sure the lid is fully open so that it will not damage the block as it emerges from the mould box.

With a careful and gentle push on the left end of the block, the block is extracted from the machine.

The block is now transferred to the drying area and carefully placed on its edge. Now, gently pull the core plate away from the block. Be sure to put the core plate back in the machine before making the next block.

Curing Your Blocks

Make sure the freshly made block remains undisturbed for at least 48 to 72 hours. The drying area should be protected from the elements — it should not be exposed to direct sun, wind or rain. In hot, dry environments, you should cover the blocks with a plastic tarp to slow the drying time; blocks that dry too quickly will crack. After a sufficent amount of initial curing time, the blocks can be stacked on their long edges for the remainder of the curing time which should typically be in the range of three to four weeks.

Using the Half Block Insert

Two critical points must be observed when using the half-block insert: 1) Be sure to completely fill the mould box, tamping the soil down as you add it, and 2) during the compression cycle, keep an eye on the Maximum Compression Indicator. DO NOT allow the indicator to rise above the line marked on the body of the mould box. Doing so can damage the half-block insert and the machine itself. When the indicator meets the line, RELEASE THE AIR CONTROL VALVE.

Establishing the Maximum Compression Line

Should the maximum compression line become damaged or hard to see, you can re-mark the correct location using the steps below.

  1. Open the lid and place the half block insert inside the machine.
  2. Place a level or a perfectly straight piece of wood on top of the mould box (see photo at left).
  3. Depress the air control valve and slowly raise the piston until the center divider plate just touches the level. This concept is highlighted by the red circle in the photograph.
  4. Using a permanent marker, draw a short line on the mould box even with the tip of the red indicator as shown in the photo.

Day’s End Clean Up

At the end of a day’s production, wash down the block press with a hose or at least several buckets of water to remove all soil from the machine. This will prevent soil build-up and ensure smooth operation when the machine is next used.

Helpful Tips

Repeated exposure to water during use and clean up may cause rust to develop on the lid locking rods which in turn may make it difficult to lock the lid. If this occurs, you can remove the rust with a fine grit (600) emery cloth. Cut a one-inch wide strip of emery cloth and clean the tips of the locking pins as shown here.

Q: Will using your block presses guarantee that my blocks will pass state or county structural integrity tests?

A: No! It’s neither the machine nor the amount of pressure applied that makes a strong block; it’s the recipe of your soil mix that determines the strength of your blocks. The right amounts of clay, sand and fine particles, along with the type of stabilizer and the proper amount of water in the mix, are all essential elements of a strong and stable block. The amount of pressure applied during compaction is important, and it has often been said that there’s no such thing as too much compaction. While that adage is true, the kind of pressure required to create artificial diamonds is not needed to produce an earth block that will pass state and county tests.

Q: Where can I find more information about compressed earth blocks?

A: You can try Wikipedia for a good description of CEBs, and plenty of good information can be found at Charmaine Taylor’s web site at DirtCheapBuilder.com.

When mixed with water and applied prior to compaction, Perma-Zyme 11X acts upon organic fines contained in the soil through a catalytic bonding process, producing a strong “cementation” action. Unlike inorganic or petroleum-based products which temporarily hold soil materials together, Perma-Zyme 11X causes the soil to bond during compaction into a dense, permanent base which resists water penetration, weathering and wear. This process takes place in 72 hours under ideal conditions.

In addition to creating a new and better way of building and maintaining roads, Perma-Zyme 11X is being used successfully in construction of lake beds, mine leach containment pads, ponds and earth enclosures for toxic waste containment — wherever there is a need to increase the load-bearing capacity of the soil and to reduce plasticity and permeability.

Perma-Zyme 11X is environmentally safe; it will not hurt humans, animals, fish or vegetation and is biodegradable.

The preceding is an excerpt from the Perma-Zyme 11X manufacturer’s literature. Here at Fernco Metal Products, we feel this is simply the best earth block stabilizer available on the market today. It’s a little expensive, but because it’s concentrated, a little goes a long way. Even if your soil is ideal for making earth blocks, adding Perma-Zyme 11X will ensure your blocks are strong and resistant to the forces of nature.

The Pacific Enzymes website has technical and engineering data available.

Adobe and Latent Heat: A Critical Connection

John J. Morony
Department of Biology
Southwest Texas Junior College
Del Rio, TX 78840

Mailing Address:
P.O. Box 421627
Del Rio, TX 78842
jmorony@delrio.com

Note: The author’s use of the term “cinder block” refers to the common cement block found in virtually all modern residential and commerical construction.Fernco Metal Products Web Master

Abstract

A series of ongoing experiments provide evidence supporting the oft-told adage that adobe houses are “warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer” than houses made of other materials. Two modular structures of equal dimension, one of adobe and the other of cinder block, were constructed with 8-inch thick walls, and roofs and floors of identical material. Each structure has an identically constructed and fitted small door for entry of data-gathering instruments. Simple experiments illustrate the thermal properties of adobe (i.e., soil). Adobe still remains soil after its incorporation into a building and thus adobe has the thermal dynamics of soil. Phase change from liquid water to vapor or the reverse will result in a high rate of latent heat to lower or raise the temperature of adobe.

On a dry day, with an out door ambient temperature of 98ºF, interior temperatures were 90ºF in the adobe structure and 103ºF in the cinder block structure. It is proposed that the 13º variation in temperature in the two structures is a direct result of the adobe having lost 8º by way of latent heat of vaporization (in accord with known properties of soil), whereas the cinder block structure gained 5º due to simple heat conduction. The reverse occurs when relative humidity is high and temperatures are low. Adobe then takes in moisture from the air, thus releasing latent heat. During cold weather, data loggers for temperature and moisture were placed in each of the modules for ten days. During each diurnal cycle the lowest and highest temperate were restricted to the cinder block.

Clay, the binder in adobe, is hygroscopic and its water content varies with available moisture. Such variation precludes adobe being assigned a specific heat capacity comparable to conventional building material. More importantly, any evaluation of adobe needs to take into consideration dynamic properties of soils (especially the role of latent heat) and not be restricted to the parameters of sensible heat (a static property) by the building industry. Experimental data gathered by the author provides strong evidence that as a construction material adobe blocks keeps a building warmer in the winder and cooler in the summer than cinder block. The explanation for this phenomenon appears to lie in the role of latent heat, not sensible heat -– a critical distinction.

Introduction

Use of cinder blocks for construction of small buildings, especially housing, has almost completely replaced adobe along the Texas-Mexican border. In the Mexican city of Ciudad Acuña, across the river from Del Rio, Texas, perhaps as much as 95% of new home construction, and essentially all government built houses, are of cinder block.

This trend from earthen structure to a cinder block one appears throughout the non-industrial world. Even still, in land where adobe construction had once dominated, the belief of the older populace persists: “Adobe is cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.”

The means for temperature moderation in adobe houses may come from the ease at which moisture enters and leaves permeable and hygroscopic soil in response to changing atmospheric conditions. The movement of moisture in and out of the adobe is more than a simple transfer of water. It is the transfer of latent heat that must take place when there is a phase change in water that raises or lowers the temperature of the building fabric. While adobe and compressed earth blocks have been assigned an R-value of .25/inch, it is the latent heat exchanges that appear to be the dynamic factor to consider most when comparing it to other building materials.

Adobe differs profoundly from all other type building material in that adobe comes from soil and remains soil after its incorporation into a building. Latent heat flux is of elementary concern to soil science. Attempts to evaluate adobe exclusively in terms of sensible heat, as with the use of the R-value, or thermal mass, have resulted in confusion in evaluating abode in terms of thermal properties.

Adobe and its suitability for exceptionally hot climates (as exists along the Texas-Mexico border) are of special interest to this study. Traditional concerns in the United States have been for development of building materials for use in cold climates. Adobe vs. cinder block construction is being studied with a series of simple experiments including the use of two modular structures, one of cinder block and one of adobe. Studies were conducted in Del Rio, Texas in 2003 and early 2004.

Two Modules

Experiment 1: Two modular structures with 8" walls were constructed: one of adobe blocks (8" x 16" x 4") and one of cinder blocks (8" x 16" x 8"). The cinder block was stuccoed with cement and the adobe with lime. Both were left with their natural color. Outside dimensions of both modules are approximately 62" x 48" x 26" with interior volumes about 22 cubic feet each. The roofs and floors of both are constructed of the same material. Both face west and were free of shadows throughout the day (Figure 1). Recording of data was made 27 August 2003 at 4:30 p.m. Modules are located at the Casa de la Cultura in Del Rio, Texas.

With an ambient temperature of 98ºF, temperatures inside the modules were 103ºF in the cinder block and 90ºF in the adobe (13º difference.) The cinder block was 5º above ambient and the adobe 8º below ambient.

Reference to R-values, or thermal mass, cannot fully explain the 13 degree difference in interior temperature. An 8-inch adobe wall has an R-value of 2 (0.25/inch for adobe) and the cinder block used has an R-value of 1.08. With the lower R-value, the cinder block would be expected to exhibit a higher interior temperature; however the significant difference is that the cinder block was above ambient temperature whereas the adobe was below ambient. This indicates that there is another important contributing factor beyond the insulating properties of these materials.

Experiment 2: Data loggers were placed in the two previously described modules during acute cold weather from the 25th to the 30th of January, 2004. Data was recorded for temperature, relative humidity and dew point. Only temperature data is illustrated in Figure 2a and 2b.


Figure 2. Temperature data loggings during a cold period (25th to 30th of January 2004). The solid bold line represents adobe; the dashed line represents cinder block and the solid light line represents ambient temperature. Note that for every temperature extremes the cinder block had temperatures higher and lower than the adobe. Also fluctuation of temperature was greater for the cinder block than for the adobe. On January 27, 2004, the range of temperature was 12ºF in the adobe and 24ºF in the cinder block.

Experiments on Latent Heat of Vaporization/Condensation

Effect of latent heat, especially of vaporization, is first demonstrated with simple experiments prior to more discussion. The initial experiment relates the nature of clay and the permeability of clay-rich material to observed results of evaporative cooling or latent heat of vaporization under full sun.

Experiment 3. Four small plastic flower pots are used to demonstrate that heat of vaporization moderates temperature. Three red clay-colored plastic pots and one slightly larger red clay pot were used. One plastic pot was painted black, another painted white and the third was left its original color. The clay pot is left with its natural clay color. The pots had their bottom holes sealed. Each was filled with 500 ml of water and covered with a corresponding colored plastic lid and placed in full sun. Ambient temperature at the time was 94ºF in the shade. After being left in full sun for three hours (2:00-5:00 p.m. CST), data were recorded (Figure 3.)

No. Pot Color/Type Temp Diff Comments
1 Black 113ºF +19º No measurable loss of water
2 White 102ºF +8º No measurable loss of water
3 Natural Clay Color 105ºF +11º No measurable loss of water
4 Clay Pot 86ºF -8º 56% loss of water

Figure 3. Test flower pots and vaporization of water. Ambient temperature was 94ºF.

The most dramatic difference is in the temperature of the clay pot; a full 8º below ambient, whereas all the plastic pots were well above ambient. The clay pot was 19º cooler than the plastic pot of similar color. Also of note is the large amount of water lost from the clay pot. An explanation is that the clay pot, while being waterproof to liquid water, it is permeable to water vapor that readily diffuses through the sides of the pot. Such movement of water molecules involves a phase change from liquid to water vapor, resulting in the latent heat of vaporization. For each gram of water going from liquid to a vapor state about 580 calories per gram of heat (540 calories per gram for vaporization with the boiling of water) are removed from the clay pot. As the clay pot lost 280 ml of water (one ml of water is equal to one gram) by diffusion there was a total of some 160,000 calories of heat removed from the water! As the heat lost is incorporated into the vaporized water molecules, it is not subject to measurement by a thermometer nor can it be felt — it is thus 'hidden' heat or latent heat of vaporization as opposed to 'sensible heat' (heat that can be felt and measured).

The plastic pots, being impermeable to water vapor, evaporative cooling was not possible. The difference in temperature of the plastic pots is associated with differing capacity of colors to absorb solar radiation. Black mostly absorbs radiant energy while white mostly reflects it. The rather dark natural clay color is in-between. The contrasting colors of black and white pots translate into difference in temperature in the two pots of 11 degrees.

Experiment 4. The important role of clay and aggregates (sand and silt) in adobe are demonstrated with a simple experiment. Besides serving as the binder in adobe, clay also contributes important thermal dynamics properties. There are two factors to consider in relationship to this: clay particles carry a negative charge and thus water, a polar compound, is readily attracted and attached to clay particles; and simple diffusion of water vapor from high to low concentration varies throughout the day in response to changes in atmosphere moisture. The presence of aggregates in the adobe provides pathways for capillary action, allowing water molecules to move in and out.

Weight Totals Weight Total
High RH, a.m. Low RH, p.m. loss of moisture loss of heat
261.0 g 257.9 g 3.1 g 1,674 cal
261.0 g 257.4 g 3.6 g 1,944 cal
260.2 g 258.4 g 1.8 g 972 cal
261.2 g 258.7 g 2.5 g 1,350 cal

Figure 4. Moisture absorbed by clay in response to changes in relative humidity. The result in exposing a cube of a compressed earth block to conditions of a hot dry climate (Del Rio, Texas from August to 20 to 24, 2003.) Weights were recorded in early morning and late afternoon.

Percent of weigh gain may be small, but the latent heat of vaporization that it represents is extremely great. The specific heat of water is much higher than any conventional building material.

Experiment 5. Three clay pots were used to determine the effects of color on evaporative cooling. One pot was painted with white enamel, one with white lime wash and the third was left its natural clay color. The bottoms of the pots were sealed, the pots filled with water, covered with a cap of similar color and placed in full sun. Any differences in evaporation between the while colored posts, related to the nature of the coating material, will be revealed.

Limewash Enamel Paint Unpainted
78ºF 94ºF 88ºF
16º below ambient no change 6º below ambient

Figure 5. Small clay flower pots filled with water: #1 lime wash; #2 enamel paint; #3 unpainted clay color. Pots exposed to full sun with for three hours in late afternoon. Ambient temperature of 94ºF.

The limewashed clay pot is now 16º degrees below ambient temperature! The high reflectance of the white limewash significantly limits the amount of radiant energy absorbed to convert into thermal energy as sensible heat. At the same time, lime remains vapor permeable and thus permits evaporative cooling.

The white enamel on the pot succeeds in greatly reducing the conversion of radiant to thermal energy, but because it is impermeable to water vapor it prevents evaporative cooling.

Experiment 6. Three clay flower pots were used to determine the effects of color on temperature when no evaporative cooling was allowed to occur (Figure 6.) One pot was painted with white enamel, one with white limewash and the third was left its natural red clay color. The pots were placed upside down in full sun. Inside temperature was measured with a thermometer inserted in the hole in the bottom of the pot.


Figure 6. Large clay pots turned upside down exposed to ambient condition in full sun; #1 enamel white; #2 white limewash; #3, natural clay color. Inside temperatures recorded after three hours exposure and subsequent gain in temperature is recorded. Ambient temperature of 94ºF.

1 2 3
104ºF 98ºF 104ºF
+10º +4º +10º

Note that the limewash is highly effective in reflecting solar radiation. Limewash is a mixture of slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) and water. When applied as a near water-thin paint it sets slowly by absorbing CO2 from the air, producing crystals of calcite (CaCO3, calcium carbonate). Unlike paints that are organic polymers, limewash is a mineral of dual reflective index and thus more effective in reflecting solar radiation. The limewash is 6º lower than the enamel.

Latent Heat and Building Materials

Phase change material (PCM) is any substance capable of latent heat flux and it has been of interest to the building industry since at least the 1940s. Stored energy in latent form within a building fabric would lead to greater heat storage capacity per unit volume than would be otherwise possible with conventional building materials. The concern has focused almost entirely on providing warmer indoor temperature in the winter. Interest in the matter appears to have been restricted to heat of fusion and an inventory of PCM did not include soil. It was initially restricted to a list of inorganic chemicals (largely hydrated salts) that would have to be incorporated into a building fabric and none constituting the building fabric itself. Nothing really workable emerged from these efforts. Interest then turned to organic PCM but with like consequences.

Soil, suitable for earthen block making, is inherently phase change material par excellence. Most significantly, it constitutes not only the entire building fabric as to heat of fusion but to vaporization and condensation as well — and it does so to a degree far in excess of almost all other materials man-made or otherwise.

The Nature of Adobe vs. Cinder Block

Clay is the binding material of adobe with silt and sand serving as the aggregate, often with the addition of fibrous organic matter by way of straw or horse manure. In construction of an adobe block, clay remains chemically unaltered. Adding water serves to facilitate rearrangements and compaction of the particles in making adobe blocks. The clay in the adobe block retains its capacity to attract water after the block is made. This water can move in and out via capillary action in response to available moisture along the pathways created by the contained aggregate.

In contrast, Portland cement (a highly complex and altered very fine powder predominantly limestone) undergoes a chemical transformation into concrete when mixed with water and an aggregate. While some capacity for capillary action may remain, it is much reduced compared with adobe or other earthen building materials. Importantly, the clay content of Portland cement has been chemically altered and is no longer hygroscopic. This distinction between earthen material and products incorporating Portland cement (or stone and brick for that matter) as building material is critical to appreciating their thermal character.

A Scaled-up Model to Consider

To scale up from the small modules, previously discussed, an appreciation of the thermal properties of an existing adobe dwelling is provided by a study published in Earthbuilder (10th Anniversary Issue 42, 1984, p. 56, Adobe News, Inc.) The house, described as an “old style adobe,” was located in Los Lunas, Rio Grande Valley, New Mexico at an elevation of 4,750 feet. The building had 17-inch thick walls and an 8- to 12-inch thick earthen roof. Temperature was recorded in two intervals: before and after expansion to the house. The initial floor plan, of less than 1,000 square feet is illustrated below (Figure 7).


Figure 7. Original floor plan as of June 14, 1976. No insulation was used and no cooling mechanisms or overhangs existed. There was one window on the north side. Late in the day a large tree partially shaded the northwest corner of the house. The building was kept closed during the period the data was gathered.

Temperature data for the adobe house on June 14, 1976:

Time Inside Temp. Outside Temp.
12:30 pm 79.0 99.0
1:30 pm 79.5 101.5
2:30 pm 80.0 102.0
3:30 pm 80.0 99.5
4:30 pm 79.0 88.0
6:30 pm 79.5 89.0

Inside temperature of the adobe did not exceeded 80º F when outside temperatures average in the mid- to upper 90s. Note that when outside temperature was 102ºF, inside temperature was 80ºF (a 22º difference!) The authors state that there was an inside temperature variation of only 5º in the house from May 27 to July 11 of that year, and further note that this was with no roof insulation or cooling unit of any kind. Significantly, the authors comment that it was noted that the inside high temperature occurred during the morning hours, at roughly 12 hours after the outside high of the preceding day. Likewise, the inside low temperature appeared in mid- to late afternoon, roughly 12 hour after the morning outside low temperature. That inside temperatures of an adobe house would be cooler when outdoor ambient temperature is highest and warmer inside when outdoor temperatures are coolest is clearly counter-intuitive! However, the adobe is responding not to sensible heat of the environment, but rather to a differential of moisture content on either side of an adobe enclosure.

Latent heat of condensation would be expected to occur in the morning hours when relative humidity is highest and outside temperature is coolest. The absorption of moisture by the clay in the adobe would result in raising the temperature of the adobe. In the late afternoon, when relative humidity is the lowest, latent heat of vaporization (evaporative cooling) would exhibit a reverse effect, i.e., adobe would actually cool. However, the explanation provided by the author centered on what is said to be the 'flywheel effect'. This is an untested assumption that a delay in the conduction of heat in and out of the adobe house would be due to sheer mass of the wall. A question arises: what is the annual energy cost required to maintain a comparable inside temperatures of a building not susceptible to latent heat flux?

Summary

The preliminary results of a series of ongoing experiments may be summarized as follows:

  1. Adobe is indeed cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, and significantly so, in comparison to cinder block and other non-earthen building materials. The reason for this is not directly related to sensible heat of conduction, but rather to latent heat and especially latent heat of vaporization and condensation. Latent heat flux appears to stabilize internal temperatures within an adobe enclosure.
  2. Thermal qualities of adobe and other earthen materials cannot be accurately expressed or understood using only the R-values of conventional building material. The “guarded hot box,” used to determine the R-values, measures steady-state heat flow of differential heat on either side of the material being tested. For adobe, it is the latent heat flux promoted by a moisture differential on either side of a wall of an enclosed adobe building that lowers and raises the temperature of the adobe. The concept of insulation, as it is applied to conventional building materials, is of doubtful use or significance.
  3. Caution is suggested in the use of any material, modifications or structural design that might impede the thermal dynamics of latent heat flux of earthen structures.
  4. Latent heat phenomena would appear to strongly favor what has come to be known as a “green roof” for adobe structures.
  5. Adobe and similar materials must be recognized for what they are — a very superior building material both from the standpoint of their functional value and cost. Economically, the price of soil is not tied to the price of oil, and the costs for heating or cooling would be significantly reduced in a rightly constructed earthen structure.
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